Destination: Kenya
Kenya is a beautiful country located in East Africa. It shares borders with Uganda, Tanzania, Somalia, Ethiopia, South Sudan, and the Indian Ocean on her eastern shore. The equator bisects the country, allowing you to straddle two hemispheres ( a great photo opportunity!). In the lower western part of the country, it shares Lake Victoria with Uganda and Tanzania. Kenya gained independence from British rule in 1963 and has been a democratic nation ever since.
Kenya is famed for its gorgeous landscapes, iconic safari, wildlife, and tea plantations. It has a rich history of music, written and oral storytelling, and artistic expression. Kenya is also widely known for its friendly people. With over 42 indigenous tribes and an ethnically diverse population, Kenyans are a welcoming, happy people. 73% of the population live in rural villages, with agriculture being a primary employer. They hold education very dear. And most Kenyans speak at least three languages - English, Swahili, and their Mother Tongue, the language of their village or region.
Two fun facts about Kenya - it is the birthplace of the actress Lupita Nyong’o, of Black Panther fame. It is also the birthplace of President Obama’s father. Though his father is no longer alive, President Obama did go to Kenya and the village of his ancestry.
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Tourism is a major source of income. They are also largely agricultural, with tea and fresh flowers being the largest exports. Coffee has declined but is still a major force. Kenya is also the most industrialized country in East Africa. Interestingly, Kenya was the first country in East Africa to entirely ban plastic bags. You can not even buy Ziploc bags there!
Kenya is very business and development friendly, which makes its capital, Nairobi, an important hub on the continent for both commerce and finance. Nairobi is a bustling city, with skyscrapers, markets, leafy boulevards, and a national park at its doorstep. Yes, there are slums and the poverty there is real. But Nairobi continues to play in important role in all of East Africa and the continent.
For travelers, Kenya is a fabulous experience. With an equatorial climate, Kenya can be a year-round destination, though rainy season is not that much fun. The best time to travel there is July to October, especially if you have an interest in trying to see the great wildebeest migration. The main airport, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO), connects to many cities around the world. It is very busy and chaotic. It is not my favorite airport in the world but I am happy they now have direct flights from JFK in New York. Kenyan food has Arab, British and Indian influences. Staples include ugali (a corn mush), chapati (from India), and rice. The monetary unit is the Kenyan shilling but most safari travel is prepaid and cards are fairly well accepted in the cities. Infrastructure in rural areas is poor but there is an extensive bush plane system to move from camp to camp. So getting around is not an issue. And riding in bush planes is one of my favorite safari experiences. Malaria is present in Africa so you should speak to your doctor or travel clinic about malaria pills. Also consult about possible routine vaccination updates and risk of Yellow Fever.
There are many different experiences to be had in Kenya. I will provide some information on the highlights for travelers.
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Nairobi
In Nairobi, you can take a walking tour with a local guide, shop the markets, explore the hotspots at night, and eat in the Carnivore Restaurant. Yes, it is all meat, exactly as it sounds! And the creator of the traditional African cocktail, the Dawa. A fun outing is to the Bomas of Kenya where you can experience the diverse array of Kenyan ethnicities through music, dance, and crafts. Short days trips include visiting the Karen Blixen Museum (made famous in “Out of Africa”), the Giraffe Center or the Elephant Orphanage, or go a safari in Nairobi National Park. And, if you can snag a reservation, definitely stay at the Giraffe Manor!
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Maasai Mara National Reserve
Also known as the Masai Mara, or locally as just the Mara, this reserve evokes images of what many view as a classic safari experience. For those of you who may have watched “Out of Africa”, that is classic Kenya. The Mara has breathtaking vistas. It has abundant game including lion, cheetah, hippo, giraffe, elephant, zebra, and leopard. With wide open plains, the sunsets are spectacular and the game drives exciting, full of lots of Big Five sightings.
The Masai Mara is famous for the wildebeest migration that happens every year. Considered to be one of the Wonders of the World, 2 million animals, including wildebeest, zebra and gazelle, move from the Serengeti in Tanzania to the Masai Mara every year, crossing the Mara or Talek Rivers. The crossings are unpredictable and awe inspiring. I have been fortunate to see major crossings of the Mara River and I will simply never forget the experience. Even if you do not see a river crossing, the sight of millions of animals in one place is simply majestic. At some point around October the animals have completed their “circuit” in the north and return to the Serengeti from the Mara. Another opportunity to be awed!
Game drives in the Masai Mara are fantastic even if not timed with the migration months. There is plenty of game in the Mara and the drives are fantastic. Maybe have lunch out on the plains as the wildebeest rest nearby. It is also the only protected area in Kenya to have Black Rhino, a rare and almost extinct species. You can also visit a local community to learn about the life and traditions of the Maasai tribe. The Maasai are a semi nomadic people who raise cattle in Kenya and Northern Tanzania. They are know for their distinctive customs and dress, as well as for being fierce warriors. And, finally, for the treat of your entire trip, take a sunrise hot air balloon ride over the Masai Mara!
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Amboseli, Meru, and Samburu
While slightly lesser know than the Masai Mara, these parks and preserves ha their own specific allure.
Amboseli is know for its large herds of long-tusked elephants. And you can sit back and watch these amazing herds with Mt. Kilimanjaro as the backdrop. Other game includes giraffe, zebra, cheetah and hundreds of birds. You can take a walking safari in the conservancy with a Masai guide. And have a leisurely bush breakfast. You will find many “self-drivers” here on weekends and holidays so plan accordingly.
Meru National Park was made famous as the place where Elsa, the beautiful lioness from “Born Free” was successfully released back into the wild. It is a small park but incredibly diverse. You can talk walking safaris here, also, That is special as they are not allowed in many parts of East and Southern Africa. There is a rhino sanctuary to visit. Meru has 13 rivers which attract an abundance of birds.
Samburu is an almost desert-like landscape. It is one of the least known parks making it very uncrowded. If you are looking for an off-the beaten path experience, consider adding a few days in Samburu after safari in the Masai Mara. Animals here include lions, elephants, leopards, and will dogs. There are also different species that have adapted to the dry hilly landscape of Samburu. The includes my favorite, Grevy’s Zebra, which can go for 5 days without water. And their stripes are finer and closer together. Just gorgeous! Here you can meet with the local communities and compare the Samburu lifestyle and warrior to that of the Masai tribe. And best of all, you can ditch the safari vehicle and jump on a camel for your safari. Where else can you do that???
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The Great Rift Valley
Another off-the-beaten-track part of Kenya, the Great Rift Valley is another experience all together. Here you will find lakes and volcanoes, and some relics from humans dating millions of years ago. Here is some of the earliest signs of Man in the world.
These areas can be visited from Nairobi and I recommend you hire a car and driver guide to take you around. Here you can see rhino, plains game and some predators. But one of the most remarkable sights are the lakes that attract thousands of gorgeous pink Flamingo. From Nakuru with its tree-lined shores (and added dose of pelicans and rhino) to eerie Lake Bogoria, with its spurting, steaming hot springs raising steam over the flamingoes resting on her surface.
With all of its gorgeous lakes, The Great Rift Valley is perfect for a boat safari where you will see the wildlife from a different perspective. The gorgeous red cliffs of Hell’s Gate set against the grassy plains make for a great place to walk among plains game. And, finally, take the fairly easy hike up Mount Longonot and walk the rim of this dormant volcano for some breathtaking views.
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Kenyan Coast
While most people immediately think of plains and safari when they hear of Kenya, it has an absolutely spectacular coast on the Indian Ocean. Mombasa, Kenya’s second largest city, continues to be an important port, playing a vital role in helping to move imports to Kenya’s landlocked neighbors.
Mombasa itself is a fascinating city. Being an important port, Mombasa was controlled by many different countries over her history. The rich history of the city can be seen in her architecture and food and culture. You can explore the markets and alleyways, shop at the markets, meet craftspeople, and explore the rich 2000+ year history of Mombasa. Make sure you visit Fort Jesus, an iconic preserved example of Portuguese architecture.
The very best reason to come to this area is for the spectacular beaches, turquoise waters, and the incredible snorkeling and diving. It is the perfect spot to unwind and rest after safari. In Diai, south of Mombasa, there are lovely quiet resorts perfect for that rest. If you choose to partake, head to Wasini Marine National Park, know for its diving and snorkeling.
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I do hope this short piece has given you some more information on traveling to Kenya and the experiences there. Mostly, I hope it has sparked your imagination and dreams. Kenya is a beautiful, diverse, and friendly country. I hope you have the experience of travel there someday.