Passion for Portugal

Belem Tower, Lisbon

Oh, Portugal. Though often overlooked for it’s neighboring friends, France, Spain, and Italy, Portugal is one of my personal favorites. Portugal has everything. History, architecture, art, wine, gorgeous valleys, amazing seaside towns, character, and the absolute friendliest people. It is a dream of mine to actually live there someday.

Portugal is broken into seven different regions, some of which I will talk a bit about here. There really is so much to see and do in Portugal that I could write a book! Every region is very different. Traveling from one to another often gives you the feeling you are in another country. From walkable cities to gorgeous beaches, wineries and “quintas” (port producers) in many regions, castles and medieval ruins, and fabulous food, everywhere, I would suggest giving Portugal some time. If not, you will find yourself going back again and again. I know this from experience.

Photo credit: Nick Karvounis from Unsplash

Starting in the north, there is Portugal’s second largest city, Porto. This is a must see. It is a perfect city to wander. Dining and nightlife can be found in the old city, the Ribeira District. There are loads of cafes and tapes bars to stop at. I love the tapas of Porto, washed down with lovely wine and finished with the port made famous in Portugal. Just remember that port is stronger than most wines!

You can walk along the Douro River but seeing the city from the river is a delight. There are many choices for an afternoon in the sunshine gazing at this beautiful city. And I would also suggest a visit to one of the port cellars. If you are like me and love yourself a market, find your way to Mercado do Balhao, the best market in Porto. You can find traditional foods as well as local craft items to pick up for a souvenir.

And for Harry Potter fans, ask me about the fabulous JK Rowling inspiration to be found here!

Photo credit: Natanael Vieira from Unsplash

To say that the Douro Valley is drop dead gorgeous is simply an understatement. It truly is one of the most beautiful spots in the world. With the Douro River at its center, the surrounding hills are impossibly green, covered in trees and vineyards and farmland and small villages. If you want to get a way for a while, this is the perfect place to get lost. And still have great food and wine!

There are many ways to travel here. It is only about an hour’s drive from Porto and can be done as a day trip. But you would be seriously stealing an opportunity from yourself to experience the magic of the region. I always recommend some time here. That being said, it is a short and lovely drive from Porto. And driving the region, though not for the faint of heart, is one of my favorite ways to see it. The roads are narrow and the drop-offs steep. If you are a confident driver, go for it! If not, we can always set up private drivers for you. It is the best way to see the region as it gives you the freedom to stop at the MANY lookout points! It allows you to take your time - and we always suggest scheduling more time than you think because you will not want to miss a thing. And we have lovely suggested driving routes and stops along the way.

Another option is to take a train from Porto. Though this does not give you the same kind of flexibility of your own schedule, the jaw-dropping views will be worth your time! There is some serious scenery that you can only see on the train ride. If you want to combine both, there are some train options that you can combine with a self-drive trip.

And the last option is to take a river cruise. This is one of my favorites in the area. To see the region from the water is the best. And this waterway is simply not as crowded as others in Europe so you will often find yourselves quietly alone on the water. Again, if you don’t want an entire week of river cruising, their are plenty of beautiful day and afternoon options.

And what is there to see and do there? Ahhh, my friends, I will tell you. Spectacular scenery, the above mentioned boat rides, vineyards to stop at and wine to taste, quintas to stop at and port to taste, and fabulous regional food to sample. There are hiking trails and lovely locals to meet. This area is meant to be slowly savored.

Lisbon

Lisbon and its environs is the next region. At the heart of this country is the best jewel of all - Lisbon. I can never get enough of Lisbon with its hills and charming architecture and cobblestone streets. With the Tagus River running through it, it is a very beautiful city. The roofs are red tiled and many homes are covered in the gorgeous tiles known in Portugal. The streets are narrow and curvy. The food is fabulous and the wine flows. Each neighborhood has its own personality so be sure to visit a few. And definitely save an evening to experience traditional Portuguese Fado music.

As in so many cities, my favorite thing to do in Lisbon is to walk the streets. I do caution you to bring comfortable walking shoes as the streets are narrow and uneven. And the hilly nature of this city make for some strenuous walks. I suggest you plan ahead and take a tram or taxi up the hill to your point of interest, and then meander back down.

And speaking of trams, they are all over Lisbon. The old trams are used as the twists and turns of the streets don’t allow for modern tram technology. Tram 28 is called the “tourist tram” as it passes by most of the popular tourist spots in Lisbon. And if the tram experience is at the top of your list, you are definitely going to want to reach out for a private tram tour of Lisbon. Yes, you can do that, the tram to yourself!

If you are a first time visitor to Lisbon, I always recommend some type of initial tour. It gives you an overview of the highlights and orients you to the entire city. There are group tours you can buy but I love hiring a private guide/driver and car for part of a day. That way, the tour can be designed for you and changed along the way based on your party’s desires. Well worth the slight extra spend. And you can chat up your guide all day! The Portuguese people are so warm and welcoming that it will be a joy of your trip there. And my new favorite way to see Lisbon? A motorcycle and sidecar tour! I will be channeling parts of my lost youth on that one!

At some point in your stay, make your way to Sao Jorge Castle at the top of the highest hill in Lisbon. The castle is a massive structure dating back to the 6th century. You can walk the grounds, wander the gardens, learn a little history, and climb to the top of the walls where you can walk all the way around for the most stunning views of all of Lisbon.

You also want to make your way to the Belem waterfront. Climb the Tower of Belem, marvel at the history of all the discoverers from Portugal, and take lovely walks on the riverfront. The Monastery of St. Jerome is worth some of your time. Built around the 15th century, the architecture is simply stunning. You can visit the tomb of Vasco de Fama here. I also love the cloisters for their peaceful tranquility.

While you are in Lisbon, savor their lovely pastry, the pasteis de nada, as often as you can. These flaky pastries filled with a not-too-sweet custard are one of my favorite things to eat in Lisbon. They never taste quite the same anywhere else.

If you are so inclined, one of the best ways to see Lisbon is from the water. If you stroll the banks of the river, you will always see boats sailing in the river. You can hire a catamaran for a day or afternoon for some of the best views of the city - and a fabulous day on the water in the sunshine.

For more great views, I highly recommend crossing the Tagus on the 25th of April bridge, that huge span you can see from everywhere. On the other side is the Christ Statue which will very much remind you of the Christ the Redeemer Statue in Rio. From this vantage point, the city is completely laid out before you. Just stunning!

Christ Statue, Lisbon, Portugal

The neighborhoods are all so different it is hard to choose a favorite. Let me know what your interests are, and I can suggest the perfect ones to spend your time and unique experiences they offer.

To finish off my (very long) bit on Lisbon, I can’t recommend eating everything everywhere enough. The fire cooked chirizo is to die for. The method of cooking and presentation are so much fun! And one must try the Bacalhau, codfish cakes traditional to Portugal. You can find them all over Lisbon. Whether you are looking for tapas, traditional local food, or interesting fusion, Lisbon has a place for you. Forget the diet until you are home!

Photo credit: Julia Solonina from Unsplash

Before we leave this region, I want to mention two more places worth a visit. While only a short 45-minute drive from Lisbon, Sintra deserves more than a day trip. The “City of Palaces” is just so beautiful! The palaces are fabulous, as is all the surrounding grounds. Every garden is worth a visit. Why not stay a couple of days and visit the Pena Palace (pictured above) which is a colorful architectural wonder. A tour of the Setais Palace with a picnic on the grounds is lovely. Or maybe a trip to a winery in the region in a classic car? Sintra is so lovely. And, if you stay the night, you get the magic with so few people that it is definitely worth the stop!

Lighthouse Santa Maria, Cascais, Portugal

The lovely seaside town of Cascais is also worth a visit. Quiet and quaint, Cascais is a very walkable town. It is a great spot for a break and the beaches are numerous and beautiful. A short walk from the marina is Boco do Inferno where the waves crash through and make some interesting noises. There are restaurants galore and I had one of the best seafood stews of my life here. There are some great hiking trails in the national park nearby and some lovely gardens throughout the town.

Photo credit: Stephan Holzinger on Unsplash

The next region is often overlooked by travelers to Portugal but it should not be. The Alentejo region is very large, stretching all the way from Lisbon to the Algarve. It is a major farming region that is filled with castles and ruins from the medieval times. The Amoreira a Aqueduct still stands and is an amazing sight. Built in the 16th century to carry waters to parched lands, it is a testament to earlier engineering feats. The Elvas fortifications, an old garrison town, is so uniquely designed and intact. Roman ruins still stand in the town of Evora. There are so many other World Heritage sites here that are seldom visited and rival their other European counterparts.

The Atlantic coast here is almost completely developed. The surf is stronger on this side so only strong swimmers are recommended in its waters. But this area is favored by surfers. And the beaches are beautiful, empty, and divine. If you are not a sunbather, take a stop here later in the day to watch a dazzling sunset over the Atlantic.

If you are into megalithic sites, there are so many in this area I am not sure I could count them. One of the most stunning is Almendres Cromlech. If you love this sort of thing, there are more than ten near Evora alone.

The Alentejo region is a great place for some outdoor time. Whether that is riding horses across the fields or ATV’s, this is the place to do it! Wide open spaces make this a perfect spot.

And if you love food and wine, this is a place for you. The Alentejo region is a huge wine producer but they often shipped their product out. Now, some really good and interesting wineries have been popping up, placing this region clearly on thew one map. And the food is very, very local. As this region was always extremely poor, they had to make interesting food out of whatever the land and sea gave them. What has been created is a wonderful version of some of the most local “local” food I have ever eaten. I have had great cataplanas (a local seafood dish) in the Algarve but the best I have had was here.

And, please, stop and speak to that local craftsperson or restaurant owner. I found the Alentejans to be some of the friendliest in what is a very friendly nation. You will come home with lovely memories and some new friends.

Algarve, Portugal

Our final stop is the Algarve, the southernmost region of Portugal. For someone like me who lived on the East Coast of the US near the ocean for most of her life, understanding that these green-blue, warm waters were the Atlantic and not the Mediterranean Sea, and not surrounding a tropical island, was simply a marvel.

Long the summer playground of the (mostly) northern Europeans, the Algarve has only been recently found by the US market, relatively speaking. And I am one of them. It was only on my very last trip to Portugal at the end of 2019 (oh, those lovely pre-pandemic days) that I made it down to the Algarve. It was the only region I had not seen so I just had to go. And I definitely plan on going back! These waters and beaches are like none other I have seen. The dramatic cliffs, secluded beaches only reached by (many) steps, the sun and the calm waters. Oh, man, why did it take me so long?

The waters are warmer in the west than the east but the whole stretch of coast offers gorgeous backdrops and great beaches. Along the way, there are towns built around fishing, agriculture and the tourism industry. The towns are lovely and old and full of local artisan wares and art. The area is best seen from the cliffs or from the water. It is just hard to take it in otherwise. Dooted along the shore are beautiful white churches and private villas, and lots and lots of walking trails. A few areas a built up but it is easy to find spots that are not.

And golf! So many beautiful golf courses!

It is easy to write the Algarve off as a summer resort destination but it is more than that. I spent a lovely day with a local chef, Ivo, who took us through a big local market where we shopped for food and honey and learned about the region. We took our haul back to his kitchen and made an amazing cataplanas (the local seafood dish) and a dessert to die for. Along the way, into my shopping bag jumped some earrings from a local silversmith and some wares from a local potter and weaver. I mean, they chose me so what could I do? One evening I had the most amazing ten course tasting menu at a local restaurant. Paired with local Portuguese wines.

The beaches are divine but there is so much more. Caves, history, wine, castles, diving, whales, luxury, yachts, food, cork. If the Algarve was not on your to-see map, it should be. There is something for everyone.

Algarve, Portugal

I know I have written a lot here my friends. And I so appreciate all of you who have read to the end. I hope it shows you just how passionate I am about Portugal. I uncover new wonders on every trip I have made here. I hope you do, too!

If you are curious to hear more about Portugal, please join us at our live virtual event with our wonderful partners in Lisbon. They have the most magical experiences that I have seen in Portugal. The live event is on Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 12pm ET/11am CT. The event is free and fun but you must register here.