Porto, Authentic Portugal in the North
Douro River, Porto
If you have spoken to me at all about travel, you know that Portugal is one of my favorite places. I love the history, the food, the people, all of it. My dream is to actually live there one day.
I was very fortunate to be invited on an industry trip to the northern part of Portugal in the spring, as well as Spain and France. My next few blog posts will be all about that trip.
I want to begin with my starting point - the magical city of Porto, Portugal’s second largest city next to Lisbon. With the red-tiles roofs leading down to the Douro River, the stunning sunsets, beautiful Azulejo tile work everywhere, architecture, cobblestone streets, and great food, Porto should be on everyone’s list to visit.
Porto
Portugal and Porto have been on the radar for a while but Porto stills maintains its authenticity. With no cruise ships pulling in or large motor coaches, Porto has been able to keep its beautiful culture. And isn’t that why we travel to places? To feel something authentic.
With the Douro River front and center, Porto beckons us to walk its streets, stop for a bit, and just take in all it has to offer.
Porto is pretty easy to navigate. There are trams, though not as extensive as Lisbon. The #1 Tram is the most utilized by tourists. A car is not a great idea in Porto. Parking is almost non-existent due to the age of the city center and the narrow streets. It really is best to go without one. Taxis and Uber are both easy to find.
A few other quick points - English is very widely spoken (fluently) as it is their second language. Their currency is the Euro (making it a fantastic value as I write this). Porto is very safe though we always recommend taking standard precautions around your belongings.
Igreja de Santo Illdefonso, Porto
Things To Do
There is much to do in Porto and I recommend most of it be done walking - with comfortable shoes! A guide really is best in Porto if this is your first time. Not only can they tell you the history, they will orientate you and, most importantly, know how to navigate the many. many hills of Porto so you never feel crazy tired.
A few highlights. …
Climb the Clergios Tower for one of the most beautiful views of the city. Built on the highest point in the city, the view of the red tiled roofs leading down to the river is worth every step.
Find the beautiful Azulejo tile work. This is so much easier than it sounds as the tiles are everywhere in Porto. A few of my favorite places to see the gorgeous displays of the tiles:
Porto Cathedral
São Bento Train Station
Capela das Almas
Igreja de Santo Illdefonso
Igreja do Carmo
Lello Library, Porto
Visit the Livraria Lello. Whether you are a reader or not, just go. Everything about this place is magical. From the staircase that influenced JK Rowling when writing Harry Potter to the incredible selection of books to the stained glass ceiling, just go! Pro Tip: Buy tickets ahead of time and pay the extra for the express ticket. It comes with a free book and, when you see the lines, you will appreciate that you did.
Eat and drink. Food is woven into the culture of Portugal and Porto is no exception. Try the Pastes da Nata at Confeitaria do Bolhao. If you don’t mind clogging an artery or two, the meat-centric dish of Porto is the francesinha and can be had anywhere. And Porto (and all of Portugal) has some amazing wines so do partake in a sip or two. Just remember that port is a fortified wine and is stronger than you think. A cold Vinho Verde is perfect on a summer day. And there are lots of sidewalk cafes and Michelin starred restaurants to make any gourmand happy. Pro tip: If you are used to eating early, do stop for some late afternoon tapas to tide you over. Most restaurants do not even open for dinner until around 8:00pm and the people of Porto tend to eat very late.
The Pink Palace, Gaia
Do a port experience. Porto is well known for its port and some of the best in the world are right across a bridge. While the making of port happens in the Douro Valley, the port has been stored in Porto, on the Gaia side. Cross the river via bridge or water and partake in some great port while learning about the history and process. And, while you are there, enjoy a great meal. Pro tip #1: Try a port tonic, the perfect summer drink. Pro Tip #2: Go to The Pink Palace and be prepared to have some fun!
Take a Douro river cruise. Seeing Porto by water is a must-do experience, especially around sunset. You will also get to see the beginning of the famous Douro Valley in one direction and the Atlantic Ocean in the other.
Cross the bridge for the sunset. You can watch the sunset from the Dom Louis I bridge itself. Or grab some snacks and a bottle of wine and sit on the terrace by the monastery like the locals do. Just walk towards the monastery from the bridge and you will see everyone setting up on the grassy hill.
Check out the Mercado do Bolhao. It will reopen in mid-September 2022 after being completely renovated. This market is the heart of local Porto with bustling stalls selling produce, meats and fish, cheese, and street food. In the meantime, they are set up in a temporary space. Though not as charming, the items sold still taste just as good. Be sure to check out the local soft cheese. Stinky, yes, but absolutely delicious!
There are so many more experiences that you could have in Porto but this blog post has covered some lovely highlights.
Maison Particulière, Porto
Where to Stay
There are plenty of great places to stay in Porto for every different kind of traveler. These are some of my top recommendations.
Maison Albar Le Monumental Palace
This hotel has it all - the highest levels of service, great location, excellent food options, and comfortable large rooms and suites. I truly can not say enough about the staff here. They deliver excellent five-star service without being stuffy. And they are located in the heart of the city, where you can walk to most other areas. And the two dining options - the chef’s table at Le Monument Restaurant and Japanese cuisine at Yakuza - are both excellent choices.
Maison Particuliere
This hotel is a hidden gem on a pedestrian street with the city just outside of your door. Located on one of Porto’s prettiest streets, there are a myriad of restaurants and shops nearby. The property is small with just ten rooms. Each one is different and impeccably decorated with such an eye for detail. Some have balconies or terraces. One of the most interesting properties in Porto. The staff provides excellent service. There is a lovely small lobby that feels more like a living room in a country estate where guests can gather for an afternoon drink. Breakfast is served around a communal table, allowing you to meet other guests. Please note: the hotel is located on a hill. To go anywhere, there is a walk up or down a hill..
Villa Foz
Located in Foz, next to the seaside, this hotel is a converted mansion along with a new building. Though it is not walkable to the city center, they have a free shuttle that takes about ten minutes. Or you can grab an Uber. The location is just perfect. The esplanade along the waterfront is right across the street. Perfect for sunset walks! If you want the sea view, the new addition is perfect. If you want old world charm, the main building is the deal. With a great spa and excellent restaurants, this is worth being slightly outside of town.
Torel 1884
This luxury boutique hotel is in an old building, renovated and decorated with a modern feel. The location is perfect with restaurants and shops nearby. Everything is walkable from the hotel. It is located in the heart of the city on a lovely cobblestone street. The service is impeccable. I needed a transfer to another Torel property and one of the staff actually drove me there herself! They also have small apartments available for families or friends traveling together.
How to Get There
Porto has many direct flights from any European city. If you are flying from anywhere else, you will probably have to connect from another hub. I flew through Genava which is a small, manageable airport that is not plagued by the current airport situation.
If this is part of a larger itinerary, you can easily drive from other parts of Portugal and Spain. There are also great high-speed train options from Lisbon.
Porto, Portugal
Porto is so wonderful! I even found a home for me and my company there!
I do hope you will put this treasure on your future travel list. Porto is a beautiful city that has stayed true to its roots. There are lovely day trips available and it is a great jumping off point to explore the Douro Valley.
As always, I am here when you are ready to start planning your next trip!