An Ancient City in Spain
Photo credit: Alexander Schimmeck from Unsplash
One of my last trips pre-pandemic was a wonderful tour of a lesser known part of Spain - Galicia. Though it would take too long to write all that I love about this area, I do want to let you in on a city I fell in love with - Lugo. It does not show up on many radar screens but it should for a variety of reasons.
Lugo is surrounded by the only complete Roman wall left standing in the entire world. It is amazing. Every morning, I would take a stroll and watch this small city, inside and outside the wall, wake up. You pass other strollers, runners and families, all while enjoying the view and the history. You pass murals (and graffiti) and houses patched together over time and all sorts of sights. This wall made Lugo a UNESCO World Heritage site. Amazing that it still stands, totally intact, after 2000 years. And you can walk on the entire loop. I just love this stuff!
While it was overcast and a bit gloomy when this photo was taken, you can see how perfect and massive this wall is! And rumor has it, the wall was built to protect a forest, not a city as most walls were. Hmmm. Wonder what that thinking was all about?
Why else should Lugo and this region be on the radar? First, as you might have guessed, it is so, so walkable. The cobblestone streets of the city inside the walls echo with history. And they are full of cafes and boutiques and restaurants. Wander away!
The cathedral, the centerpiece of so many European cities, is spectacular. It seems more simple when you first see it but as you study the exterior, it is full of surprises. And the interior?? Well, just go and see for yourself. And the town is full of historical remnants everywhere, like the old bridge the covers the Minho River. And the underground villa of Domus Oceani, where the wealthier Romans lived. History buffs, there is soooo much to see.
The food scene is interesting here. I had amazing 5-star meals here and the absolute best of the local fare. Local is more simple, “peasant food”. This was an area that has had to work hard to survive so the food reflects that. But I know of THE most amazing place for pulpo a feira, a traditional octopus dish from the region. That is literally all they serve.
And if you are a foodie, this region is home to some pretty amazing food festivals. Time it right and you can live like a local.
Lugo is such great place to use as a home base as you explore this region. For history buffs, a stop at the Castro de Vilandonga is a must see. This amazingly well preserved ancient village is fascinating. And, I am convinced, still has some magic in the air.
And, did I mention the wine? Lugo is a great hopping off point to the stunningly gorgeous Ribiera Sacra region where the vineyards are maintained on hills that climb straight out of the river below. This region deserves a post all its own.
I could literally go on and on about this part of Spain. It was love at every sight.
Stunningly gorgeous landscapes, history, food, wine, and stubbornly resilient people that will welcome you anywhere. Do any of us need more? Okay. Lugo has a part of the Carmen de Santiago running through it so, if you are adventurous or a pilgrim, Lugo is a good rest stop on the walk. Sunshine. Green everywhere. Open spaces. No crowds. And deeply imbedded in ancient history. Sold yet? It is not on the radar for many and I hope it stays our secret.
Photo credit: Massimo Virgilio from Unsplash
Lugo and the surrounding area are a great add-on to a tour of San Sebastian, the Mecca of foodies with more Michelin starred restaurants per square meter than any region of the world.
It is a short flight from Barcelona, too.
PRO TIP: If you decide to go, please reach out for the place that serves the best octopus I have ever had. There is no sign and no Trip Advisor thing you can book. Truly a unique non-googlable experience.
As always, I am ready to answer questions or help you start dreaming of future travels as the world heals. I would love to match you interests up to an amazing trip to this part of the world!
If you are ready to start dreaming about a trip to Spain in your future, reach out to me here.