The Out-In-The-Open, Hidden Gem in Mexico
How does one talk about one of their favorite places in the world without gushing a bit? I am not sure. So, if I gush, please forgive me. I mean, I am doing all the hand things that I do when I talk - and I am only writing! I hope you just embrace my enthusiasm.
Introducing the hidden gem of San Miguel de Allende. Travel + Leisure votes it the Best City in the World for years in a row but I know so few who have been there. And I will never understand why. It is easy for us in the States to get to. It is lovely and safe and full of all the things we love. And full of surprises.
San Miguel de Allende is a colonial city in the state of Guanajuato, northwest of Mexico City. It was originally in the heart of the silver producing area and grew as a central market for that metal. It is actually named after two people. San Miguel, who was a Friar credited with founding the town and, years later, the last part of her name was added for Ignacio Allende who was a local hero in their fight for independence against the Spanish. I love that. Two names.
In the 1900’s, San Miguel was hit very hard with an influenza breakout. The city was devastated and almost a ghost town. The story, told to me by an SMA native, is that a returning vet from WWII, Sterling Dickinson, was taking a motorcycle ride through Mexico after he was released from his service. Being an artist, he arrived in San Miguel and saw that the light was ah-mazing for artists. (It is) He started scooping up the abandoned real estate and renovated them for studio space and residences for artists. He was prominent back in DC getting the art schools, that he helped set up, in San Miguel eligible for the GI Bill for returning soldiers. Thus was born an expat community that has only grown until this day. By the way, he never left and is buried there.
The expat community is large - about 25,000, with the majority being from the States. I do not want that statistic to scare you. San Miguel has lost none of its charm. It is decidedly Mexican and the expats embrace that.
Why does this world traveler put it at the top of her list? Oh, let me gush a little about the reasons why.
Let me start with my favorite thing. This is an amazingly walkable small city. Do bring a pair of good walking shoes because it is all about the old cobblestone streets. The architecture. The doors. The doorknobs! The art is everywhere you look. The town squares. I think there are nine, besides the Central Square. All beautifully green and lovingly tended. Even all the rooftops add to the delight. if you are a photographer (or a wanna-be like me), bring extra SD cards.
Another reason - the food. Maybe this is one is a bit influenced by the tastes and expectations of the expat community. That is okay. It has pushed the cuisine to amazing places. There is authentic street food, true Mexican cuisine (no nachos please), and some incredible fusion menus happening all over town. Every. Bite. So good!
And, did I mention the wine? Who the heck knew that Mexican wine is so, so good??? We don’t seem to be able to get it here in the States for reasons that I don’t know. But it is good. Trust me on that. And tasting on the grounds of one of the best vineyards could be on your radar. With a lunch amongst the grapes. Ahhh, heaven.
The architecture. Simply amazing. Very traditional Spanish colonial style but well preserved. I believe the city center must all stay within seven colors that they can paint exteriors. It makes for such beauty and blending but allows the details to pop. Everywhere you look. And I think I have mentioned the doors and doorknobs. Yes, a little obsession of mine. I love attention to detail.
The markets. Please give yourself a little time to wander the Mercado San Juan de Dios. Partly covered, partly open air, partly little shops. For my textile friends, yea, I came home with treasures. Local Mexican art and silver jewelry, and textiles, and clothing and amazing candy. Authentic and so fun to wander. This is the infamous place where I ate my first crickets. A big moment for me. Bugs were my only “do not eat” item. Now, it is not. Worth the afternoon wander. And who knew there are avocados with skins so thin you eat them like an apple? Yes, all here.
I think I mentioned art but may not have said that it is Art, with a capital A. In the murals and the way they design gardens and in the galleries. It is simply everywhere.
And I mean art. Art schools. Workshops. Local crafts. Art. Creativity. Studios. Everywhere you look. For a creative soul, it is heaven. And my favorite place is Fabric L’Aurora. I could get lost here for days. Honestly. Okay, I am gushing. Sorry.
And then, there are the people. So warm and welcoming. A friend asked me if it was a good place for families and I answered with a resounding YES! Family, solo, couple, it does not matter. Whoever you are, it does not matter. The warmth of the Mexican people in this region is unsurpassed. Just talk to them. I will never again have to talk to you about their warmth and dedication to family and love of children.
And let me finish this all gushy rant of love with Dia de los Muertos. I so wish I could describe this celebration well but I most often find myself just saying “you have to experience it yourself”. I found it humbling, enlightening, joyous, creative …
The marigolds and altars and history and care for those that precede us. It is a special experience. And San Miguel de Allende does this so well. Traditional, creative and loving.
Truly, friends, this is a hidden gem in plain sight. I promise.
As always, I am here if you want to know more. This gem will be worth your time.