Travel Journal 2023: Barcelona
I have recently returned from Spain where I spent time in Barcelona and Sevilla (Seville to the English speaking countries). I joined a small group of travel industry colleagues from the US who were there to visit the Mercer Hotel properties in both cities and experience what these two beautiful Spanish cities have to offer. And, as always, Spain just does not disappoint.
In this post, I will talk a bit about the wonderful Mediterranean city of Barcelona.
Barcelona is Spain’s second largest city and the most visited of all the regions. It is a lively city full of art on display as parks, apartment buildings, and cathedrals. Best known for the art and architecture of Gaudi, there is so much more to Barcelona than Gaudi - though we all love how his art has graced the city and somewhat defined it.
Barcelona is also a place of music and lively neighborhoods, cobblestoned narrow streets and amazing food, beaches and busy ports. To visit Barcelona is to love it, no matter the time of year.
I stayed in the Gothic Quarter, the oldest part of the city. Named for the architectural style that dominated Europe in the 12th-16th century, it is the heartbeat of this city. The Gothic quarter is a winding maze of pedestrian streets (with the occasional trafficked street) where you will find little boutiques, tapas bars, churches and boutique hotels. It is easy - and recommended - to take some time and stroll the cobblestone streets … and get lost.
I was there right before Easter and I was lucky to see some practice runs for the upcoming processions for the holiday.
At the heart of the Gothic Quarter is the Barcelona Cathedral (Catedral) and the Catedral Square in front of it. On sunny days, you will find buskers and dancers and a general meeting place for Barcelonians and tourists alike. It is lively and fun! If you want to avoid the crowds but enjoy the atmosphere, I recommend finding a cafe nearby and enjoying a cafe or sangria or beverage of choice.
The Gothic Quarter is also a photographers dream and you will find early morning tours with photographers catching beautiful scenes here. You will never be without an interesting piece of architecture to snap or a cool street tableau if photography is your thing.
Close to the Gothic Quarter, in the La Ribera neighborhood, is a treasure for art lovers - the Picasso Museum. Picasso moved from Malaga, his birthplace, to Barcelona when he was a teenager to young man. He always considered it both his home and where it all began. Though not as extensive as the Picasso Musuem of Paris (one of my favorites), the Barcelona collection is a glimpse into his early works and gives you a view of this revolutionary artist as a young man and newcomer to the art scene. To understand Picasso, his early works offers one of the best views to the man and the artist.
No trip to Barcelona would be complete without a visit to a Gaudi masterpiece, of which there are many. The most famous is the Sagrada Familia, the unfinished cathedral. I have heard rumor that there are hopes to complete the cathedral by 2026, just in time to celebrate the artist’s death. We shall see. I always recommend that people visit churches and cathedrals throughout Europe even if you are not religious. These important parts of so many towns and villages are like standing museums of art as wealthy benefactors often commissioned now-famous artists to create masterpieces on the walls and in the sanctuaries of churches and cathedrals, all to the glory of God. And maybe a place in heaven for the benefactor. While these structures are like art museums, the Sagrada Familia IS a piece of art unto itself. Beautiful, intricate, and full of changing light, the Sagrada Familia is like no where else on earth. I do recommend a guide to learn the history of the structure and the artist. And … you can only get fast track tickets with a guide.
If you have already seen the Sagrada Familia, don’t despair. The city is full of Gaudi art from the Parc Guell to Casa Batllo, El Drac de Gaudi at Finca Guell (Dragon Gate), Casa Mile, Casa Calvet, and more. If you are willing to go a bit off the beaten path, the Gaudi Crypt is amazing! And if you ever find yourself in Leon, Spain, do take some time to visit Plaza de Eduardo Castro, one of my favorite of Gaudi’s works.
Barcelona is not all buildings and art. The food scene is incredible with amazing tapas bars all over the city. For those unfamiliar with tapas, these are small plates meant to share. As most Spaniards eat late, tapas is a little snack shared among friends in the hours between work and dinner. It is a lively time in any Spanish city, full of conversation and laughter. Because I usually do not eat as late as most Spaniards, it often serves as my dinner and is one of my favorites. Who doesn’t like a little bite of everything! And so much is local and fresh as fresh can be.
On this trip, I traveled outside the city to the fertile wine region of Penedes. We traveled through beautiful, vast and open areas. Who knew this was right outside the city? While the roads were winding at the very end of the 45-minute journey, it is easily navigable as a day trip from Barcelona. And a different view of the region that I would highly recommend. I do recommend a car and driver so that you can partake of the bounty of the region (in other words, drink wine!) and arrive back to Barcelona safely.
We spent a fun afternoon at Jean Leon Winery learning both about this fascinating man and the way he created chateaux style wine in Spain, as well as creating our own personal blend to bottle and take home with us. As they are blended with young vintages from the winery, we will not open our unique bottles for another year or two. We then got to taste the professionally blended wines of the Jean Leon Winery and learned more about the owner’s unique life story. He was the founder and owner of the famous La Scala Restaurant in LA.
And, if you visit during the warmer months, don’t forget that Barcelona has amazing beaches. Though most people visit for all things city center, a couple of days relaxing on a beautiful beach with warm Mediterranean waters might be just the thing to take layers of jet lag off your body and mind before you start your tour of Barcelona and the rest of Spain!
Recommended hotels in Barcelona
Mercer Bercelona (5-star)
Mercer Barcelona is a luxury boutique hotel located right in the heart of the Gothic Quarter. Step outside, you are immersed in the lively center of this fascinating city. Step inside the hotel, it is a tranquil oasis. This unique 28-room property was renovated from an ancient building into the boutique hotel it is today. There are two restaurants to choose from and a cosy bar for your nightcap. One of my favorite parts of the hotel is the rooftop bar, exclusive use for guests only. Sunbathe, mediate, share some cava, or dip into the plunge pool - all uninterrupted by the outside world. The rooms and suites are comfortable and modern with many containing architectural elements of the original centuries old building. And the beds are a nap or good sleep just waiting to happen. A few of the rooms have balconies for personal use. The service levels at this property are truly exceptional. With the perfect location steps aways from much to be seen in Barcelona, this slice of tranquility will not disappoint.
The Corner Hotel (4-star)
Located in the Eixample neighborhood of Barcelona, all that the city has to offer is not too far away. Rooms are a bit on the small side but comfortable. The Hall & Lounge on the first floor are a great way to start your day with coffee or end your day with tapas and a nightcap. Open to the public, it has an ebb and flow tide of guests and locals alike. The rooftop, however, is open only to hotel guests. There is a decent sized rooftop pool with towel service, a relaxing bar area, amazing views over the city (including the Sagrada Familia), and beautiful sunset views.
Hotel Midmost Barcelona (4-star)
Located near Las Ramblas, the iconic main avenue of Barcelona, Hotel Midmost is walkable to many sites, restaurants, and shopping areas in the city. It is also walking distance to the Boqueria Market, as well as the Gaudi icons Casa Batllo and Casa Mila. Breakfast is served each morning in the library but there are few other food offerings in the off-season. Not to worry - there are plenty of neighborhood restaurants nearby. During the summer months, the rooftop serves drinks, snacks and tapas, with lovely views over the city, along with a small plunge pool. The rooftop is open to the public. Service levels are high and rooms are very comfortable.