Travel Journal 2023: Seville

Catedral de Sevilla

Continuing with my recent travels to Spain, this blog post will talk a bit about Sevilla (Seville to the English speaking countries). Though I have been to Spain, I had never visited this southern Spanish city before and I fell instantly and hopelessly in love.

Main avenue near the cathedral

If one were to bottle up sunshine and travel the world, looking for a city to sprinkle out the magic dust, it would land on Sevilla. I know that sounds incredibly corny but that is what I felt in my time there. Like happiness found its spot and was very content to just stay there. It has a beautiful vibe for a small city - unhurried and relaxed during the day yet lively in the evening. I rarely heard a honking horn or felt the rush of a passerby or waiter who wanted me to vacate a table. It is relaxed and comfortable to walk all over the city. The streets and sidewalks vary from wider avenues to cobblestone alleys. The city is full of tapas bars with outdoor patios and sidewalk seating, gelato stands, paella and other traditional restaurants, local boutiques and artisan shops, as well as the usual tourist souvenir shops. It is also home to the world’s third largest cathedral (and largest in the Gothic style), the Alcazar, and a harmonious mix of Moorish and Christian influenced architecture.

Orange blossoms in Sevilla

And then there are the orange trees. They are everywhere! I was there in the early spring when the trees are just starting to flower and the aroma from the trees fills you up and lets you know that spring is really here. I was told that, later in the season, you can walk the streets and just pick an orange from the trees. But I was also warned not to eat them for they are a very bitter variety, used for marmalade, perfumes, and soaps only! The smell of orange blossoms will forever transport me back to Sevilla in the spring.

Diners enjoying patio dining in Sevilla

Sevilla is Spain’s fourth largest city, after Madrid, Barcelona, and Valencia.  Though there is some daytime cruise traffic in the tourist areas, Sevilla is not nearly as crowded or touristed as Barcelona. One of my colleagues told me she thought Sevilla was so much more authentically Spanish and I have to agree with her. Though there are tourists, the residents of Sevilla seem to operate outside of the tourist realm. The city welcomes strolling, relaxing with a gelato or around a table with drinks and tapas, or quietly walking or sitting in the many squares and parks.

Catedral de Sevilla: Columbus’s tomb containing a small amount of his remains

The Cathedral is in the center of the city and massive. It is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and the third largest church in the world. You can climb to the top of the bell tower fairly easily. There are a series of about 35 ramps and then a final 17 steps to the top. Most people can make it to the top within 5-7 minutes. You are then rewarded with amazing views across the city. I was there during the start of Holy Week and found it quite crowded. I would highly recommend an early morning visit or a pre-opening private tour if you are interested. Built on top of the original mosque, there are Moorish influences throughout the cathedra, making it a really interesting cathedral to visit.

Gardens of the Alcazar

Another iconic, must visit site is the Alcazar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. With its Moorish architecture and beautiful tile work, it is a lovely place to stroll for an afternoon. The gardens are my favorite part. There are lots of different styles, as well as a gallery to get a sense of the grounds and roaming peacocks. The audio guides are very good but you can also hire a private guide or tickets to a group tour. Do allow yourself time for a long stroll through the gardens!

Plaza de Espana, Sevilla

Plaza Espana was built for the 1929 World Expo and is well worth a visit. With fun boats in the “moat” and its seven bridges, it is a beautiful spot for an early morning stroll. As it is now used as government and military offices, you can not go inside the building but wandering in the plaza is still lovely. In addition, Maria Louisa Park is right next door.

Plaza in the evening, Sevilla

Mostly, I would recommend plenty of time to stroll Sevilla, taking in the scented air, some gelato, the beautiful architecture, and enjoying this lovely, happy city. It will not disappoint.

Rooftop of Mercer Sevilla

Recommended Hotel in Sevilla

Mercer Hotel Sevilla 5*

In the heart of Sevilla’s historic center, in El Arenal neighborhood, near Nueva Square and the iconic Real Maestranza bullring, stands the 5-star Mercer Sevilla Boutique hotels. Housed in the former Casa Palacio Castelar, an elegant late 19th center mansion, with dreamlike rooms and suites. Designed for guests who are looking to have a luxury experience in an exclusive setting. From the foyer with its fountain to the intimate dining room, the Mercer Hotel Sevilla still has the beauty and privacy or an intimate home.

EME Mercer Hotel 4-1/2*

The EME Mercer Hotel is blending of 16 townhomes into one unique property where no two rooms are alike. Located right across from the cathedral, the EME gives you perfect views of the cathedral and city center convenience. Surrounding the hotel, you will find restaurants, shopping, and short walks to the cathedral and the Alcazar. Hands down, it has the best location in the city. The hotel has a buzzy vibe with a rooftop bar open to the public, creating a lively scene at all times of the day. The rooms are spacious, comfortable, and creatively furnished. The rooms in the front have Juliet balconies, along with a few terraces, looking straight at the cathedral. The nighttime views are incredible and provides a view down to the lively avenue below. Note: if you are sensitive to noise, some of the street noise does drift up. If this is a concern, ask for a room away from the buzz. They have a lovely dining room for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as the aforementioned rooftop bar where you can get creative cocktails and light bites. There is also a rooftop pool for exclusive hotel guest use, as well as a small spa. The service is friendly and on point. The EME Mercer Hotel is a great choice for those looking for the best location.

The Alphonso XIII 5*

If you are looking for that see-and-be-seen style of White Lotus, the Adolphus is for you. You feel it the moment you walk into the gorgeous tile and art filled lobby. Part of the Luxury Hotel Collection, the iconic building is located in the Santa Cruz neighborhood. With Moorish influences combined with Andalusian elegance, this hotel is the perfect resting stop for those liking more traditional elegance. And the pool is beautiful - and a see-and-be-seen scene unto itself.

The Nobu Hotel Sevilla 5*

Opening after my most recent stay, I have yet to have the opportunity to visit this hotel. I mention it here because the Nobu properties around the world carry such a reputation for hip charm and excellence that I wanted to make sure it made it to the list. And, yes, there is a Nobu restaurant. The hotel has a perfect location, right in the center of the old city on the Plane de San Francisco, and blends the trademark Japanese design with Andalusian vibrancy.

Petit Palace Santa Cruz 4*

Conveniently located boutique hotel steps away from both the Catedral de Seville and the Alcazar. The lovely hotel has spacious rooms with.a modern vibe. The inner courtyard provides a sanctuary in the middle of Seville. And, they provide free bikes if you want to tool around Seville on two wheels!